Japan
Japan's first autumn colour igniting an alpine plateau where bears and pikas roam unchallenged.
Autumn arrives here first. Mid-September, when the rest of Japan is still green, the peaks of Daisetsuzan blaze red and gold across a wilderness larger than any national park in Japan. Daisetsuzan in Hokkaido's interior spans 2,268 square kilometres of volcanic ridges, boreal forest, and brown bear territory โ a landscape that cares nothing for human schedules.
Daisetsuzan National Park is Japan's largest, centred on a cluster of volcanic peaks exceeding 2,000 metres. The Grand Traverse links Asahidake, Hokkaido's highest peak at 2,291 metres, to Tokachidake across a five-day ridgeline walk with mountain huts spaced a day's walk apart. Sounkyo Gorge cuts through columnar basalt cliffs, with two 100-metre waterfalls โ Ryลซsei and Ginga โ visible from the road. Brown bears, Hokkaido deer, and pikas inhabit the park year-round, and the autumn colour change โ starting in mid-September, weeks ahead of mainland Japan โ draws photographers from across Asia.
Solo
The Grand Traverse is a five-day solo commitment through bear country on ridgelines above the clouds. This is not hiking โ it is mountaineering in slow motion.
Friends
Multi-day ridge walks shared between mountain huts, with the mutual support of group navigation through volcanic terrain and unpredictable weather.
Venison and potato stew at mountain lodges after a ridge traverse.
Sounkyo Gorge onsen ryokan dinners: Hokkaido crab, corn, and melon.

Bayano Caves
Panama
Limestone caverns with underground rivers flowing through Guna territory, explored by torchlight.

Cirque de Gavarnie
France
A rock amphitheatre where Europe's tallest waterfall drops 423 metres into freezing mist.

Derwent Edge
England
Gritstone tors carved into shapes so strange each one has earned a name.

Welcome Flat Hot Springs
New Zealand
Earned hot pools steaming beside a glacial river โ seven hours of walking to reach them.

Shirakami-Sanchi
Japan
Eight thousand years of virgin beech forest untouched by axes or roads.

Iriomote
Japan
Subtropical jungle covering 90% of an island where the wildcat skulks and no road crosses.

Hachijojima
Japan
Subtropical volcanoes and black sand surf three hundred kilometres south of Tokyo by air.

Shimanami Kaido
Japan
Six bridges island-hopping across the Inland Sea on a bicycle lane suspended over blue.