Japan
Powder so dry and deep that falling into it feels like sinking into cold silk.
The snow is dry enough to blow off your glove. Niseko sits on Mount Annupuri in western Hokkaidō, square in the path of the weather that rolls in off Siberia and drops some of the lightest, driest powder on the planet. The mountain is not Japan's tallest, but the snow that falls on it made it the country's most famous ski resort.
Four resorts share one mountain — Grand Hirafu with its satellite base at Hanazono, Niseko Village and Annupuri — linked by a single all-mountain pass, with long groomed runs and, unusually for Japan, gated backcountry through silver birch where the powder lies waist-deep. Australians found it first, and Hirafu's streets are full of English voices after dark. Après-ski here is an onsen: outdoor volcanic hot springs with the snow falling on your shoulders and Mount Yōtei, the local Fuji, across the valley. When the snow goes, the same slopes turn to hiking, canoeing and rafting on the Shiribetsu River, with the onsen still steaming.
Friends
Four linked resorts, tree runs in powder, and an onsen once the lifts close — Niseko suits groups who want variety and a reason to recount the day's runs.
Couple
A private onsen, powder runs through birch forest, and the ritual of warming up together after a cold day on the mountain.
Family
Gentle slopes for beginners, ski schools in several languages, and the novelty of bathing in an outdoor hot spring while snow falls.
Post-ski miso ramen thick with butter and sweetcorn — Hokkaidō's warmth in a bowl, at the Hirafu noodle shops.
Niseko's own milk and cheese from the dairy below the mountain, eaten as soft-serve even in the snow.

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