Indonesia
Karst islands burst from neon water; below, mantas queue at their cleaning stations.
The karst appears without warning, dark limestone mushrooms over water saturated with colour. The reef starts at the surface: soft corals in violent purples, barracuda turning like weather, and cleaning stations where the mantas come in to be groomed.
Raja Ampat's fifteen hundred islands scatter across Southwest Papua at the heart of the Coral Triangle, and its surveys set world records: over 1,700 reef fish species, more than 600 corals, and Cape Kri's 374 species logged on a single dive. Papuan homestays on stilts, dive resorts and liveaboards divide the archipelago into operating zones, all reached by boat from Sorong with the marine-park tag paid on entry. Manta Sandy's cleaning stations and the Wayag karst lagoons are the marquee days, and the currents that feed the reefs mean qualified guides pick each site to the sea.
Solo
A homestay or shared liveaboard slots one diver into the boat programme without a group to bring.
Couple
One quiet island base, guided reef days out, and evenings with nothing but the tide.
Friends
Pooling a boat brings the far viewpoints and split snorkel sites inside one trip.
Homestay meals are communal and menu-less: rice, fresh fish, whatever the boat brought.
Papeda with turmeric fish broth is the Papuan staple to seek out in Sorong before the crossing.

Ningaloo Reef
Australia
Coral begins close to shore; whale sharks require a licensed boat into deeper blue.

Ucluelet
Canada
Each season the town's aquarium empties itself back into the harbour.

Tofino
Canada
A fishing village became Canada's cold-water surf capital without losing its working harbour.

Lake Taupō
New Zealand
An inland sea filling the caldera of one of Earth's most violent eruptions.

Bajawa
Indonesia
Hot springs steam in the forest below Inerie while village shrines keep the ancestors close.

Komodo National Park
Indonesia
Around 5,700 giant lizards roam dry savanna islands where strong currents draw whales and turtles.

Ijen Crater
Indonesia
Sulphur miners and blue fire share Ijen's crater with a kilometre-wide acid lake.