Indonesia
The world's third-largest atoll rings a lagoon so wide the far rim disappears.
After hours of open sea the reef appears: a ring of coral enclosing a lagoon that runs beyond the horizon, sandbars surfacing at low tide like white islands that forgot to finish. People live out here, which is half the wonder.
Takabonerate, in the Flores Sea south of Sulawesi, is the world's third-largest atoll, its national park covering over half a million hectares of reef, seagrass, sandbars and small inhabited islands. Expedition boats make the multi-day crossing from Selayar with permits, landings and community arrangements set with the operator, and the outer walls drop into pelagic water where sharks and rays patrol the current lines. Fishing families and rangers share the atoll; visits move through their world, which keeps the place honest.
Couple
An expedition cabin makes the remotest sea in Sulawesi a shared adventure.
Friends
Long boat days and sandbar landings divide well among a crew of friends.
Expedition boats carry the galley; meals are set with the operator before sailing.
The inhabited islets run on the fishing families' catch, shared by arrangement, not menu.

Manuel Antonio
Costa Rica
Capuchins patrol the sand beneath dozing sloths where rainforest walks into the ocean.

Vaitupu
Tuvalu
Tuvalu's largest island, where traditional sport te ano sends two woven balls flying at once.

Tortuguero
Costa Rica
Jungle canals where green sea turtles haul onto black volcanic sand under a moonless sky.

Kadavu
Fiji
Manta rays circle the world's fourth-largest barrier reef, off villages the road barely reaches.

Nias Island
Indonesia
At Bawömataluo, jumpers still clear a two-metre stone tower in a single leap.

Ijen Crater
Indonesia
Sulphur miners and blue fire share Ijen's crater with a kilometre-wide acid lake.

Lake Toba
Indonesia
A volcanic island the size of Singapore floats inside the largest caldera lake on Earth.

Mentawai Islands
Indonesia
Sago smoke in the longhouse, heavy water on the reef: the Mentawais run two worlds.