Indonesia
The world's third-largest atoll rings a lagoon so wide the far rim disappears.
After hours of open sea the reef appears: a ring of coral enclosing a lagoon that runs beyond the horizon, sandbars surfacing at low tide like white islands that forgot to finish. People live out here, which is half the wonder.
Takabonerate, in the Flores Sea south of Sulawesi, is the world's third-largest atoll, its national park covering over half a million hectares of reef, seagrass, sandbars and small inhabited islands. Expedition boats make the multi-day crossing from Selayar with permits, landings and community arrangements set with the operator, and the outer walls drop into pelagic water where sharks and rays patrol the current lines. Fishing families and rangers share the atoll; visits move through their world, which keeps the place honest.
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Couple
An expedition cabin makes the remotest sea in Sulawesi a shared adventure.
Friends
Long boat days and sandbar landings divide well among a crew of friends.
Expedition boats carry the galley; meals are set with the operator before sailing.
The inhabited islets run on the fishing families' catch, shared by arrangement, not menu.

Abaiang
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At high tide the sea surrounds Tebunginako's church; the village choir times services around it.

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A swannery where six hundred mute swans nest in reed beds behind the Chesil Bank.

Abel Tasman National Park
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Golden bays between forested headlands, reached only on foot, by kayak or water taxi.

Aberdaron
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A church on the sand where pilgrims ate their last meal before the island crossing.

Alor Archipelago
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Cold upwellings funnel hammerheads and threshers through Alor's volcanic straits.

Bajawa
Indonesia
Hot springs steam in the forest below Inerie while village shrines keep the ancestors close.

Baliem Valley
Indonesia
The plane drops through mountain walls into a valley the outside reaches only by air.

Banda Islands
Indonesia
Manhattan was traded for one of these nutmeg islands, and the groves still stand.