Turkey
A tenth-century Armenian church carved with biblical scenes floats alone on an island in Lake Van.
The ferry cuts through Lake Van's alkaline blue and the church appears, a single stone building on a treeless island, its walls covered in carved biblical scenes so detailed they read like a stone comic strip. Almond trees bloom pink around it in spring. The silence, broken only by gulls and the slap of lake water on volcanic rock, is absolute.
Akdamar Island sits in the southwestern reach of Lake Van and holds the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, built between 915 and 921 AD by the architect-bishop Manuel for the Armenian king Gagik I of Vaspurakan. The exterior carries an extraordinary cycle of carved reliefs, Adam and Eve, David and Goliath, Jonah and the whale, among the finest surviving medieval Armenian sculptural art, and fragmentary frescoes survive inside. Restored between 2005 and 2007 and opened as a museum, it heard an Armenian liturgy again in 2010, the first in 95 years. The almond orchards planted by its monks still flower each spring against the deep blue of the soda lake.
Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors · Powered by Geoapify
Solo
Standing alone before a thousand-year-old church on an island in a soda lake, reading biblical stories carved in stone, is the kind of solitary encounter with history that redefines a trip.
Couple
The ferry crossing, the island's quiet and the carved church create an atmosphere of reverent intimacy. Come in spring, as the almond trees bloom around the walls.
Tandırda Van balığı, the lake fish cleaned with the head left on, salted, then baked.
Van otlu peyniri, sheep's milk curd layered with sirmo and heliz herbs and aged in brine.

Abaiang
Kiribati
At high tide the sea surrounds Tebunginako's church; the village choir times services around it.

Abbotsbury
England
A swannery where six hundred mute swans nest in reed beds behind the Chesil Bank.

Abel Tasman National Park
New Zealand
Golden bays between forested headlands, reached only on foot, by kayak or water taxi.

Aberdaron
Wales
A church on the sand where pilgrims ate their last meal before the island crossing.

Aizanoi
Turkey
A complete Roman temple alone in a wheat field, grain prices carved in its market hall.

Altınbeşik Cave
Turkey
An underground river opens into a cathedral-sized cavern holding Turkey's largest underground lake.

Amasya
Turkey
Ottoman mansions reflected in a narrow river gorge, Pontic rock tombs carved into the cliff above.

Ani
Turkey
A ghost city of 100,000 souls on the Armenian border, churches crumbling into wildflower meadows.