Canada
Gwaii Haanas
Abandoned Haida villages where moss-draped mortuary poles stand witness in absolute silence.
The Zodiac cuts its engine and drifts into a cove on SGang Gwaay. Haida mortuary poles stand at angles in the moss, leaning but not fallen, watched by a lone Haida guardian who has lived on this island since May. The only sounds are the creak of wood and the lap of the Pacific.
Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site covers the southern third of Haida Gwaii, accessible only by boat or floatplane. The park is jointly managed by Parks Canada and the Haida Nation — the only co-management arrangement of its kind in the country. Five abandoned Haida village sites, including the UNESCO-inscribed SGang Gwaay, hold the most significant collection of standing Haida poles in the world. Haida Watchmen live at each site from May through September, guarding their ancestral heritage and guiding visitors. Hot springs on Hotspring Island bubble into natural rock pools overlooking the Pacific. Multi-day kayak expeditions through the park's coastline pass through waters populated by orcas, humpback whales, and Steller sea lions.
Solo
Multi-day kayak expeditions guided by Haida Watchmen offer the kind of deep, immersive cultural-wilderness experience that solo paddlers live for.
Couple
Camping on deserted beaches between ancient village sites, soaking in Pacific-view hot springs, and sharing meals cooked over driftwood fires — Gwaii Haanas is backcountry romance at its most profound.
- SGang Gwaay (Ninstints) holds the most complete collection of standing Haida mortuary poles in the world, slowly being reclaimed by moss.
- Haida Watchmen live on-site at the abandoned village sites from May to September, guiding visitors through their own ancestral history.
- Hot springs on Hotspring Island bubble into rock pools overlooking the Pacific — reachable only by kayak or charter boat.
- Sea lions, whales, and bears patrol the coastline while you paddle between islands on multi-day kayak expeditions.
Campfire-grilled salmon wrapped in cedar bark, the ancient Haida method.
Foraged sea asparagus and bull kelp picked from the intertidal zone between paddle strokes.
Everything tastes better when you've kayaked twelve hours of Pacific coastline to earn it.
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