United Arab Emirates
Ice sheets the UAE's highest ridge on the coldest winter dawns, desert haze far below.
The road leaves the coastal heat and climbs for half an hour through bare, folded limestone, the air cooling with every switchback. By the top you are 1,934 metres up in a country synonymous with desert, wearing a jacket, looking down through drifting haze towards the Gulf.
Jebel Jais is the high point of the UAE, part of the Hajar range that was pushed up from an ancient seabed around 70 million years ago and still carries marine fossils in its strata. The summit air runs roughly ten degrees cooler than the emirate below, and on the coldest winter nights the ridge dips to freezing: in January 2022 sheets of ice formed near the top, an event striking enough in Arabia to lead the national news. Six marked hiking trails totalling about 16 kilometres thread the ridgelines, from short viewpoint walks to long traverses above wadis that fall away towards Oman. The drive itself is half the reason to come, more than 30 kilometres of smooth tarmac and hairpins with pull-ins built for the view.
Solo
Take the longest marked trail early, when the light is flat and low across the strata, and have the fossil-bearing ridges largely unshared before the day's drivers arrive.
Couple
Save the drive for dusk, park at a pull-in and watch the desert plain turn amber while the temperature falls away with the sun.
Family
The viewing decks near the top deliver the mountain's scale without a long walk, and the shortest marked trails suit children used to more forgiving climates.
Friends
Give the day to a ridge hike plus the switchback drive, then hold out for a table in the cold evening air at the top, comparing the mountain against every idea you had of the UAE.
Book a window seat at 1484 by Puro, the highest restaurant in the country, named for its altitude in metres.
Down at sea level, Skeek in Ras Al Khaimah city plates thareed, crisp rigag flatbread drowned in spiced stew.

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