Samoa
Lake Lanoto'o
Goldfish loosed in German colonial days still swirl in a highland crater lake.
The trail to Lanoto'o is honest mud from the first bend, a slippery climb through rainforest where the mist sits low. Then the trees part on a pea-green lake filling a volcanic crater, and orange flickers start moving under the surface. Goldfish, at 760 metres, in mid-Pacific: the strangeness takes a moment to land.
The fish descend from ornamental goldfish introduced in the German colonial era, and they have thrived ever since in Samoa's largest lake, about 400 metres across and 17 metres deep in a crater more than a hundred thousand years old. Around them stretches Lake Lanoto'o National Park, three crater lakes and upland forest designated a Ramsar wetland of international importance in 2004, with habitat for the manumea, Samoa's endangered tooth-billed pigeon. A rough four-wheel-drive track reaches the trailhead; from there it is a muddy rainforest hike of about two hours return, and guided day trips walk in, swim and walk out in around five. The water is warm, the light is green, and the swim comes with an audience.
Solo
The mud filters out casual visitors, so the lake often rewards a lone hiker with stillness, birdsong and fish circling below the surface. Join a guided walk rather than navigating the highlands alone; the reward is the same.
Friends
Share the slog and the swim: two hours of slippery trail buys a crater lake to yourselves and a story that starts with goldfish. Grippy shoes and a dry change of clothes are the whole kit list.
- Goldfish introduced in the German colonial era still live in the lake, orange against pea-green water.
- Lanoto'o is Samoa's largest lake, about 400 metres across and 17 metres deep at 760 metres' elevation.
- The surrounding national park holds three crater lakes and was designated a Ramsar wetland of international importance in 2004.
- The upland forest is habitat for the manumea, Samoa's endangered tooth-billed pigeon.
Nothing is sold past the trailhead, so walk in with lunch and water and eat at the waterline with goldfish for company.
Fresh tropical fruit is the trail food that works here: bananas and papaya travel well and taste better at a crater rim.
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