New Zealand
Castlepoint
A lighthouse on a razor-thin reef where fossils crumble from the cliffs into the surf below.
A reef of limestone extends into the Pacific like a natural jetty, and at its end stands a lighthouse battered by every storm the Wairarapa coast can deliver. Castlepoint in New Zealand's lower North Island is where the farmland ends and the ocean begins with no negotiation.
The natural reef walkway leads to Castle Rock, a 162-metre-high limestone formation that anchors the lighthouse at the top. Fossils of ancient marine creatures crumble from the cliff face — the limestone is approximately sixty million years old. A lagoon behind the reef provides sheltered swimming while the ocean side takes the full Pacific swell. The annual Castlepoint horse races, held in March, run directly on the beach — hooves on wet sand with surf crashing beside the track. The settlement has a few dozen holiday homes, a campground, and no shops.
Solo
Walking the reef to the lighthouse at dawn, with the only sounds being surf and seabirds, is a solitary experience that the remoteness protects.
Couple
The lagoon is sheltered enough for a swim while waves detonate on the reef metres away. The contrast between calm and chaos is the setting's defining feature.
- A natural reef forms a walkway to a lighthouse perched on a rock stack battered by the Wairarapa coast.
- Fossils of ancient sea creatures crumble from the cliff face — the limestone is sixty million years old.
- The lagoon behind the reef is sheltered enough for swimming while the ocean side takes the full force of the Pacific.
- The annual horse races run directly on the beach — hooves on wet sand with surf crashing beside the track.
No restaurants — bring a chilly bin of beer and a barbecue for the campground.
Masterton's Café Strada does a proper eggs benedict the morning after camping.
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