Mono Lake

The tufa towers rise from the water's edge like drip castles left by a giant — pale, porous, otherworldly. The lake behind them stretches flat and silver toward the eastern escarpment of the Sierra Nevada, its water so alkaline it feels slippery between your fingers. Brine shrimp swirl in pink clouds beneath the surface. No fish live here. Almost nothing should. And yet the sky above is thick with gulls.

Mono Lake in eastern California is roughly 700,000 years old and has no outlet — evaporation over millennia has concentrated its salts to 2.5 times ocean salinity, making it physically impossible to sink in its waters. The tufa towers that define the shoreline are calcium carbonate formations that grew underwater where freshwater springs met the lake's carbonates; they became exposed in the 1980s when Los Angeles aqueduct diversions lowered the lake level by 45 feet. A landmark legal battle halted the diversions and the lake has been slowly recovering since. Roughly 80% of California's gull population breeds on Negit Island in the lake's centre, commuting 150 miles each day to feed on the coast. The South Tufa Area preserves the tallest formations on a one-mile loop at the water's edge, with the Sierra reflected in the alkaline shallows behind. The Whoa Nellie Deli at the Tioga Gas Mart — lobster bisque and fish tacos served from a petrol station — has become a culinary landmark in its own right.