Italy
Ponza
A volcanic island off the Lazio coast where Romans cut eel pools into the sea cliffs.
The ferry swings past the lighthouse point and the harbour opens, a crescent of ochre, pink and terracotta stacked above jostling fishing boats. The water has the colour of blown glass. Volcanic rock arches over coves that keep no names on any map.
Ponza is the chief island of the Pontine archipelago, strung between Rome and Naples and still run on fishing, terraced farming and a fierce local identity. The Romans carved the Grotte di Pilato into the sea cliffs, tunnels and pools where they bred eels for the table, and the Bourbon planners later drew the harbour's pastel crescent. Chiaia di Luna's pale beach lies under a hundred-metre volcanic wall, best admired from the water, and a boat tour of the island's arches and coves remains the essential Ponza day. Lentils still grow on the volcanic terraces above the sea.
Couple
Hire a boat, idle past the Roman-cut grottoes, and be back at the harbour for lentils and the evening catch.
Friends
Split a boat, pack wine and bread, and circle the volcanic coast; every hour offers another arch, another cove, another reason to drop anchor.
- The Grotte di Pilato are Roman fishponds cut into the sea cliff, where eels were raised for the table.
- A boat circuit of the island's volcanic arches and coves is the essential Ponza day.
- Chiaia di Luna's pale crescent lies beneath a hundred-metre volcanic wall.
- Outside August the island returns to something near its winter self, harbours and lentil terraces included.
Zuppa di lenticchie alla ponzese turns the island's terrace-grown lentils into its signature dish.
Coniglio alla ponzese, rabbit braised the island's own way, is the surprise on a menu ruled by the sea.
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