Turkey
Georgian monasteries cling to cliffs above whitewater gorges in Turkey's wildest northeastern corner.
The road climbs through granite gorges where the Çoruh River crashes white below, and then a 10th-century Georgian church appears on a cliff ledge, its frescoes still holding colour inside walls that should have collapsed centuries ago. Artvin is Turkey's wildest northeastern corner — forests so dense they block the sky, rivers so fast they define the landscape.
Artvin province in Turkey's eastern Black Sea region contains some of the country's most dramatic mountain scenery and its densest forest cover — over 55% old-growth woodland. Georgian churches at Dörtkilise, İşhan, and Barhal date from the 10th century and retain original frescoes. The Çoruh River valley offers Grade IV-V whitewater rafting through granite gorges. The annual Kafkasör Festival features bull wrestling on alpine meadows at 1,300 metres.
Solo
Artvin rewards the self-sufficient traveller — the roads are winding, the churches are remote, and the forests are primeval. This is exploration, not tourism.
Friends
Whitewater rafting the Çoruh, hiking to forgotten Georgian churches, bull wrestling at Kafkasör — Artvin is a group adventure in terrain that most visitors to Turkey never see.
Black Sea pide — boat-shaped flatbread loaded with butter, egg, and local cheese.
Laz böreği — a sweet custard-filled pastry unique to the eastern Black Sea.

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