Turkey
Crystalline springs feeding ice-blue pools in a gorge where brown bears still roam undisturbed.
The water is impossible. It emerges from the mountain base in massive springs, so cold and clear it glows turquoise against the dark rock. Munzur is a gorge of ice-blue pools and old-growth forest, silent but for the river and, occasionally, something large moving through the trees.
Munzur National Park, in Tunceli province, is one of Turkey's most biodiverse protected areas, with 38 mammal species including brown bears, wolves and wild goats. The Munzur River erupts from enormous karst springs at the mountain base, its temperature barely above freezing, which gives the water its unmistakable turquoise. The valley is sacred to the local Alevi community, who make a pilgrimage to the springs each late summer, and Bronze Age rock carvings along the walls are still only partially catalogued. The road between Tunceli and Ovacık runs the valley's length, and few travellers ever drive it.
Solo
Remote, wild and spiritually charged. Munzur rewards the self-sufficient traveller who wants Turkey's backcountry at its most raw, with a local guide plus a full tank the only infrastructure.
Friends
Riverside walks beside springs that leave the rock barely above freezing, and the shared thrill of genuine wilderness where brown bears still patrol the ridgelines.
Gulik kavurması, the wild çiriş herb boiled then folded through eggs and butter.
Zirafet, tandır bread broken into garlic yoghurt under a pour of hot clarified butter.

Krafla
Iceland
Boiling mud pots and steaming lava fields that still radiate heat decades after erupting.

Cerro Hoya National Park
Panama
The last wild corner of a cattle peninsula, kept by monkeys that bear its name.

Oaxacan Sierra Norte
Mexico
Cloud-forest trails link Zapotec villages that invented community ecotourism in Mexico.

Kaçkar Mountains
Turkey
Glacial lakes above the clouds where herders still drive cattle to alpine meadows each summer.

Lycian Way
Turkey
A 760-kilometre clifftop trail threading ruins, coves and pine forest above the Mediterranean.

Köprülü Canyon
Turkey
White water through a canyon spanned by a Roman bridge, a ruined city perched above.