Pakistan
A desert principality's Italian-style palace abandoned in a backstreet, forgotten by everyone except the pigeons.
Pigeons roost in the gilt window frames of Noor Mahal, an Italian-Baroque palace marooned in a backstreet where goats wander the forecourt and children play cricket against its marble facade. Bahawalpur was once a princely state wealthy enough to commission European architects, and the evidence stands in various states of grandeur and neglect across this Punjabi city — palaces you can walk into almost by accident.
Bahawalpur was the seat of the Abbasi nawabs, a princely dynasty that ruled an area larger than the Netherlands until accession to Pakistan in 1955. Their architectural ambitions produced Noor Mahal, an Italian-style palace designed by a British architect in 1872, and Darbar Mahal, a grander residence that remains in military use and is visible only from outside. The central library, designed in Indo-Saracenic style, sits in the old city alongside Mughal-era mosques and bazaars selling the city's signature sohan halwa — a saffron-laced brittle sweet. Bahawalpur is also the gateway to Cholistan Desert and Derawar Fort, making it a practical base for desert excursions. The old city's narrow lanes reward wandering — princely-era buildings appear without warning between shops selling dates and pottery.
Solo
Solo travellers find Bahawalpur's faded princely grandeur best explored on foot — the old city's lanes reveal forgotten palaces between date bazaars, and the sohan halwa shops provide a reason to stop at every corner.
Couple
Couples discover a city where Mughal mosques, European-commissioned palaces, and bustling bazaars sit side by side — Bahawalpur's layered history makes for wandering that reveals something different at every turn.
Bahawalpur's sohan halwa — saffron-laced and crumbling, the city's edible signature.
Chole bhature from the old city's breakfast stalls.
Fresh dates from Cholistan's edge — some of Pakistan's finest, sticky and dark.

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