Greece
Alpine newts swim in glacial pools at 2,000 metres โ the dragon lakes of the Pindos.
The lake sits in a limestone bowl at 2,050 metres, its water dark and still, alpine newts drifting just below the surface. The Gamila plateau stretches away in every direction โ bare rock, crevices packed with alpine flowers, and a silence broken only by wind across the stone pavement. The climb from Papigo takes three to four hours, and the altitude change is felt in every step.
There are two Drakolimni (dragon lakes) in Greece โ the most accessible sits at 2,050 metres on Mount Gamila in Zagori, reached by a three-to-four-hour ascent from the Papigo villages. The Alpine newt inhabits the lake; the Greek word drako was applied to newts, which ancient Greeks considered uncanny creatures, giving the lakes their name. The Gamila plateau surrounding the lake is high-altitude limestone pavement, covered in summer with Crocus nivalis and other alpine flowers growing directly from rock cracks. In winter the lake freezes completely and snow lies on the plateau until May or June โ early-season approaches require crampons and route-finding on unmarked terrain. The Astraka refuge below the plateau provides basic overnight accommodation for hikers.
Solo
A high-altitude lake in a limestone bowl โ the climb is demanding, the plateau is empty, and the newts in the water are the only company.
Friends
A challenging group hike from Papigo to the dragon lake, overnight at the Astraka refuge, and kontosouvli in the village square afterward.
Mountain tea brewed from sideritis picked at the treeline, drunk at the Astraka refuge.
Descend to Papingo for kontosouvli spit-roast and cold Zitsa wine after the climb.

Ambae
Vanuatu
Residents trickle back to an island evacuated for its volcano, its acid crater lake shifting colours.

Mount Rinjani
Indonesia
A gruelling three-day volcanic ascent to a crater lake holding another active, smoking cone inside.

Artvin
Turkey
Georgian monasteries cling to cliffs above whitewater gorges in Turkey's wildest northeastern corner.

Wolchulsan
South Korea
A bright orange suspension bridge swaying ninety metres above a jagged granite gorge.

Kalymnos
Greece
Chalk-dusted hands on overhanging limestone where sponge divers' grandchildren turned an island into a climbing mecca.

Telendos
Greece
A sinking island โ a drowned basilica beneath the strait while climbers scale the cliffs above.

Matala
Greece
Cliff caves once Roman tombs, then a hippie commune โ Joni Mitchell slept in these rocks.

Santorini
Greece
White villages balanced on a caldera rim where the sea has flooded a volcano's shattered heart.