Turkey
Lake Van
A vast soda sea where you float without trying, ringed by snow-capped volcanoes.
The water is not quite blue, not quite green — a mineral turquoise that shifts depending on the light and the volcanic sediment stirred by the wind. Snowy peaks rim the horizon in every direction. A lone boat crosses toward Akdamar Island, where the silhouette of a tenth-century Armenian church rises from the rock like a hallucination.
Lake Van is the largest lake in Turkey and the largest soda lake in the world, spanning 3,755 square kilometres in the country's far east. Its highly alkaline water — too salty to drink, soft enough to wash clothes without soap — supports only one fish species, the pearl mullet (inci kefalı), which migrates up freshwater streams to spawn each spring. Akdamar Island's Church of the Holy Cross, built in 921 CE, is carved with extraordinary biblical reliefs on its exterior walls. The lake sits at 1,640 metres, surrounded by volcanic geology: Nemrut Crater to the west, Süphan Dağı to the north. Van itself is famous across Turkey for its breakfast culture — Van kahvaltısı is a ritual of dozens of small plates, anchored by the region's signature otlu peynir, a cheese aged with wild mountain herbs found only at this altitude.
Solo
Lake Van rewards the curious traveller willing to go deep into eastern Turkey. The breakfast ritual alone justifies the journey, and the solitude around the lakeshore is immense.
Couple
A boat trip to Akdamar Island followed by a Van kahvaltısı spread of forty-plus dishes makes for a day that balances wonder with indulgence.
Family
The alkaline water is gentle on skin and buoyant enough to float easily — children love the novelty. The boat ride to Akdamar and the pearl mullet migration are natural storytelling moments.
- Lake Van is the world's largest soda lake — its alkaline water (pH 9.8) supports almost no aquatic life except a unique endemic fish.
- The lake covers 3,713 km² and sits at 1,640 metres altitude — water temperatures rarely exceed 18°C even in summer.
- The pearl mullet (inci kefalı), unique to Lake Van's tributaries, makes an annual spawning migration up waterfalls each spring.
- A 10-minute ferry from Gevaş reaches Akdamar Island and the 10th-century Armenian Church of the Holy Cross.
Van kahvaltısı — Turkey's most extravagant breakfast: dozens of small plates of honey, cheeses, herbs, and eggs.
Otlu peynir — Van's herbed cheese, aged with wild mountain herbs that grow nowhere else at this altitude.
Pearl mullet — the lake's only fish species, salted and grilled, uniquely adapted to the alkaline water.
Lake Titicaca
Peru
So high the air stings, so still the sky sinks into the water.
La Rochelle
France
Twin fortress towers guarding a harbour where Huguenot defiance still flavours the salt air.
Comacchio
Italy
A lagoon town of canals where eels have been trapped and smoked since Roman times.
Sitka
United States
Totem poles and Russian onion domes facing each other across a harbour where humpbacks surface.
Assos
Turkey
A temple of Athena perches on volcanic rock above the Aegean, Lesbos shimmering on the horizon.
Şirince
Turkey
Grandmothers sell peach wine from doorsteps in a Greek hill village abandoned in 1923.
Konya
Turkey
Whirling dervishes spin in silent trance inside the turquoise-tiled tomb of Rumi.
Myra
Turkey
Rock-cut Lycian tombs stacked like a honeycomb above the church where Saint Nicholas was bishop.