South Korea
Sokcho
Squid stuffed with noodles by families who carried the recipe south across the 38th parallel.
The grandmothers came from the North during the war, carrying recipes that existed nowhere south of the 38th parallel. Their children still stuff squid with glass noodles in a port town of fish paste, sea fog and memory.
Sokcho stands at Seoraksan's eastern gate but runs on its own identity: Abai Village, founded by North Korean refugees of the war years, keeps a displaced food culture alive, its ojingeo sundae, squid stuffed with noodles and pork, and the distinct abai sundae both carrying recipes rare in the South. The fish market lands the East Sea fleet's catch daily, the harbour lanes reward slow walking, and the city easily fills a day kept distinct from the mountain next door.
Solo
Move from Abai’s history to the harbour and market without needing a car or mountain itinerary.
Friends
Friends can compare market dishes, but should give the refugee village its own quiet attention first.
Couple
A coastal walk followed by a shared seafood meal makes an easy day for two at mixed energy levels.
- Abai Village keeps North Korean recipes alive south of the line.
- Ojingeo sundae and abai sundae carry the refugee food lineage in the South.
- The market lands the East Sea fleet's catch daily.
- Seoraksan's gate is minutes away, but the city stands on its own.
Ojingeo sundae, squid stuffed with noodles and pork, is the refugee lineage on a plate.
Dakgangjeong, sweet-crisp fried chicken, sells from a whole alley of the market.
Malmö
Sweden
A skyscraper twisted ninety degrees overlooks a strait where Swedes commute to Denmark for dinner.
Lecce
Italy
Baroque carved from soft limestone so intricate the facades look like they were piped from icing.
Oaxaca City
Mexico
Seven moles simmer in a city where every wall is an altar to colour.
New Orleans
United States
Jazz spilling from doorways at 2 a.m. while beignet sugar dusts your collar.
Busan
South Korea
Korea's largest fish market runs live auctions at dawn beside city beaches and cliff temples.
Mungyeong Saejae
South Korea
Joseon scholars walked this dirt pass through three stone gates for five hundred years.
Seonunsa Temple
South Korea
For two weeks each September the temple valley floor turns spider-lily red.
Tongyeong
South Korea
Admiral Yi's old naval harbour still works, squid boats to the quay edge.