Micronesia
A magician's stone plugged a geyser here, says legend; the climb is bare basalt and rope.
Paipalap, a name that means the great boulder, stands over Pohnpei's harbour like a door bolted against the sky: a volcanic plug crowned with more than a hundred vertical metres of bare basalt. Pohnpeians tell of a magician's stone dropped to plug a gushing spring. The scramble to its summit is short, steep and unforgettable.
The route up Sokehs Rock is a three-pitch scramble, hauling on tree roots, fixed ropes and an old electrical conduit, and it asks for a dry day and a cool head; the trail starts by a village house where asking permission is part of good manners. The summit, just over 200 metres up, pays everything back: lagoon, reef passes, tuna boats, and Pakin Atoll floating to the west on clear days. The mountain also stands beside hard history. Sokehs was the district that rose against German colonial rule on 18 October 1910, and the fifteen men the Germans executed in February 1911 lie in a marked mass grave in Kolonia, honoured today as national heroes. Climb in the morning, then pay respects at Komwonlaid where they rest; together they are Pohnpei at its fullest.
Couple
For a couple with steady nerves the rock is a morning well spent: two hours of roots and rope, then the whole lagoon laid out for two.
Friends
Friends can push each other up the pitches, shout across the summit wind, and be eating in Kolonia by early afternoon.
The roadside food stands between Sokehs and Kolonia serve some of the island's most authentic local plates.
Descend hungry: Kolonia's diners and sushi bars sit just below the ridge.

Bella Coola
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A glacier-walled valley drops from the Chilcotin to a Nuxalk river town at tidewater.

Zanskar Valley
India
Cliff-clinging monasteries above a frozen river that was for centuries the only winter road.

Rishikesh
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White-water thundering out of the Himalayan foothills toward ghats where sadhus meditate at dawn.

Serra do Rio do Rastro
Brazil
Hairpins carved into a sheer cliff face, climbing out of the lowlands and into cloud.

Chuuk Lagoon
Micronesia
A warm lagoon where coral grows over the deck guns of a sunken Japanese fleet.

Yap
Micronesia
Stone money too heavy to move, so ownership transfers by word alone on this jungle island.

Tonowas
Micronesia
Jungle swallows the headquarters of Japan's Fourth Fleet: tunnels, guns and a bomb-proof command bunker.

Eten Island
Micronesia
An entire island turned into a Japanese airfield, its runway now a straight line of jungle.