Kiribati
Tabiteuea
The warrior atoll — combat dances still performed with shark-tooth swords on ancestral contest grounds.
The crack of bare feet on compacted coral. The flash of shark teeth bound into a wooden blade. On Tabiteuea, combat dances are not performances for visitors — they are living expressions of a warrior identity that rejected chiefly rule centuries ago and never looked back.
Tabiteuea's name translates as 'It is not for a king' — the atoll historically governed itself through warrior councils rather than hereditary chiefs, a distinction that shaped its culture differently from every other Gilbert Island. Te baeka — weapons carved from wood and lined with rows of bound shark teeth — were the traditional armament of Tabiteuea's warriors and remain actively referenced in ceremony. Te ruoia, a traditional Gilbertese war dance performed with these weapons, is still danced at community gatherings, one of the few atolls where the full warrior repertoire has survived into the present. The atoll's shark fishing tradition, in which hunters historically dived into the water to take on sharks at close quarters, is considered a mark of warrior lineage that communities still trace with pride.
Solo
Solo travellers with a deep interest in Pacific cultures will find Tabiteuea's warrior traditions unlike anything else in Micronesia. Earning the community's trust enough to witness a te ruoia performance takes time — and that patience is the point.
Friends
A small group arriving together gains access to communal events more naturally than a lone visitor. Giant clams prised from the reef and eaten raw on the spot are better shared — as is the story you will tell about the shark-tooth swords.
- Tabiteuea’s name translates as ‘It is not for a king’ — the atoll historically rejected chiefly rule in favour of warrior councils, a distinction that shaped its culture differently from every other Gilbert Island.
- Te baeka — shark-tooth weapons with carved wooden handles and rows of bound shark teeth — were the traditional armament of Tabiteuea warriors and remain cultural artefacts actively referenced in ceremony.
- Te ruoia, a traditional Gilbertese war dance performed with these weapons, is still danced at ceremonies on Tabiteuea, one of the few atolls where the full warrior repertoire has survived into the present.
- Tabiteuea’s shark fishing tradition — where hunters historically dived into the water to wrestle sharks barehanded — is considered a mark of warrior lineage that communities here still trace with pride.
Giant clams prised from the reef and eaten raw on the spot, ocean still dripping off the shell.
Flying fish dried on racks in the equatorial wind, smoked and chewed like jerky between meals.
Hideaway Island
Vanuatu
Post a waterproof postcard from the world's only underwater post office, then snorkel its coral reef.
Ureparapara
Vanuatu
Sail into the flooded crater of a horseshoe-shaped volcanic island where fewer than 500 people remain.
Isla Magdalena
Chile
Magellanic penguins in their tens of thousands, nesting so close you walk through their colony.
Buracona
Cape Verde
At midday, sunlight plunges through volcanic rock and ignites an underwater cave into electric blue.
Betio
Kiribati
Rusting Japanese guns still point seaward from beaches where a thousand Marines fell in 76 hours.
North Tarawa
Kiribati
Wade across turquoise shallows between villages where outrigger canoes are still the only road.
Kiritimati
Kiribati
Bonefishers wade endless turquoise flats while millions of seabirds darken the sky above.
Abaiang
Kiribati
Foundations of a drowned village emerge at low tide — the Pacific already reclaiming this atoll.