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Beddgelert, Wales

Wales

Beddgelert

A stone village at the meeting of two rivers, named for a legendary dog's grave.

#Mountain#Family#Couple#Solo#Wandering#Relaxed#Historic#Eco

Two rivers meet under a stone bridge and the village is built around the sound of them. Beddgelert, in the heart of Eryri, the national park of North Wales, is grey stone houses, a footbridge, a church and a meadow with a grave in it, and the grave belongs to a dog: Gelert, the hound of Llywelyn the Great, who killed it in a rage believing it had savaged his baby son, then found the boy alive beside a dead wolf. The name means Gelert's grave, and the whole village is the retelling.

The story is one of Eryri's defining tales and the grave in the riverside meadow is where generations have gone to hear it; The Colwyn and the Glaslyn join here, and the riverside path runs south between shelving banks that make a chain of small sandy coves, then squeezes into the Aberglaslyn Pass, where the Glaslyn crashes through a gorge under the trees and the old fisherman's path clings to the rock. A short walk out of the village is Sygun Copper Mine, where you go underground into workings that trace copper mining in these valleys back to the Romans, and the Welsh Highland Railway's steam trains whistle through on the line between Caernarfon and Porthmadog, with the Lôn Gwyrfai path running 4.5 miles beside the track to Rhyd Ddu at the foot of Yr Wyddfa. Nant Gwynant lies to the east and Snowdon to the north, so the village stands at the meeting of three of the park's finest valleys, and it has kept the inns, tea rooms, ice-cream shop and campsites to serve them.

Terrain map
53.012° N · 4.103° W
Best For

Family

Ride the steam train one stop to Rhyd Ddu and walk back through the forest, go underground at the copper mine, and finish at Gelert's grave with an ice cream; it is a village designed for an eight-year-old.

Couple

The Aberglaslyn gorge walk first, the railway after lunch and a stone inn by the bridge at night, with the rivers loud under the window.

Solo

Use the village as the quiet end of a Snowdon week: the Rhyd Ddu path to the summit starts a train ride away, and the Fisherman's Path and Cwm Bychan round makes a hard day of gorge and old mine workings.

Why This Place
  • The village takes its name from Gelert, the hound of Llywelyn the Great, killed by his master who thought the dog had savaged his son when it had saved him from a wolf; the grave in the meadow is where the story is told.
  • The Colwyn and the Glaslyn meet under the village bridge, and the path downstream follows the Glaslyn into the Aberglaslyn Pass, a gorge of rock and rapids.
  • Sygun Copper Mine, a walk from the village, takes you into workings that were dug for copper here as far back as Roman times.
  • The Welsh Highland Railway's steam trains stop in the village on their way between Caernarfon and Porthmadog, with Yr Wyddfa in the carriage window.
What to Eat

Ice cream from Glaslyn, the family that has made it in the village for more than fifty years, eaten on the walk to Gelert's grave, or one of their Neapolitan pizzas once the hills are done.

Lunch or a homemade cake at Y Bistro yn yr Hebog on the Caernarfon road, the village café-bistro that cooks with local Welsh produce.

Best Time to Visit
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