Mexico
Pastel streets and surviving bastions face the Gulf from a fortified historic centre.
The wall came first and the colours came later. Inside Campeche's surviving bastions, houses in lime green, rose and ochre line straight colonial streets that end at the Gulf light.
Campeche's UNESCO-listed centre keeps the bastions, gates and street plan of a port that armed itself against raiders and grew rich on Gulf trade. Its museums and fortifications tell the piracy story with dates and cannon rather than costume drama. In the evening the malecón fills with walkers and the plazas with families, which is when the city feels least like a monument and most like itself.
Couple
Walk the pastel streets at golden hour, then take the malecón as the Gulf light fades.
Solo
Trace the bastions and museums at your own pace, ending in a plaza with the evening crowd.
Family
Let children patrol the walls and cannon while the centre's short distances keep everyone fresh.
Pan de cazón, layered tortillas with dogfish shark and habanero-tomato sauce, is state intangible heritage.
Chocolomo, beef stewed with garlic, coriander and sour orange, and coconut-crusted shrimp fill out the port's table.

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