Peru
Las Huaringas
Sacred highland lakes where curanderos perform midnight healing ceremonies in water cold enough to stop breath.
The water is black and cold enough to seize your lungs. At 3,900 metres in the Huancabamba highlands, these lakes sit in a bowl of cloud and silence, their shores lined with the medicinal plants curanderos have foraged for millennia. You arrive before midnight. The ceremony begins in darkness.
Las Huaringas is a cluster of sacred highland lakes in Peru's Piura region, the spiritual centre of a folk-healing tradition that predates the Inca and the Moche — at least 3,000 years of continuous shamanic practice. Curanderos harvest San Pedro cactus and other plants from the lake shores for use in limpias, ritual cleansing ceremonies performed in or beside the freezing water between midnight and 4 AM. Participants enter the lake regardless of season, the temperature rarely climbing above 10°C. The ceremonies are not performance — they are living practice, undertaken by Peruvians from across the country seeking healing. Access requires a climb from Huancabamba, the mountain town known as the shamanism capital of Peru.
Solo
The ceremonies are deeply personal and best experienced alone. Solo travellers willing to surrender to the curandero's guidance and the shock of freezing highland water will find Las Huaringas unlike anything else in Peru — or anywhere.
- The sacred lakes sit at approximately 3,900 metres in the Huancabamba highlands — cold enough that the water is below 10°C year-round.
- Curanderos harvest San Pedro cactus and other plants from the lake shores for use in limpias — ritual cleansing ceremonies performed in or beside the water.
- The healing ceremonies take place between midnight and 4 AM — participants enter the freezing lake as part of the ritual, regardless of season.
- The Huancabamba area has been a centre for folk healing and shamanism for at least 3,000 years — older than the Inca, older than the Moche.
Seco de chabelo — plantain mashed with dried beef — at Huancabamba market before the climb to the lakes.
Herbal infusions prescribed by the curandero after the ceremony, each plant hand-foraged from the surrounding hills.
Ureparapara
Vanuatu
Sail into the flooded crater of a horseshoe-shaped volcanic island where fewer than 500 people remain.
Buracona
Cape Verde
At midday, sunlight plunges through volcanic rock and ignites an underwater cave into electric blue.
Fajã d'Água
Cape Verde
Hairpin bends drop through bougainvillea clouds to a hidden bay beneath the island of flowers.
Tarrafal
Cape Verde
A concentration camp turned resistance museum sits behind the cove where political prisoners once swam.
Cusco
Peru
Inca walls fitted so tightly a knife blade won't slide between the stones.
Machu Picchu
Peru
Cloud forest parts at dawn to reveal granite terraces balanced on the edge of the world.
Arequipa
Peru
A city carved from white volcanic stone where every building glows amber at sunset.
Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo)
Peru
Inca water still flows through stone channels beneath the windows of a living fortress town.