Wales
Little fortress of the fish: two beaches, a tidal fort island, coffee inside the harbour wall.
Tenby's Welsh name says what it is: Dinbych-y-pysgod, the little fortress of the fish, a town that began as a fort on a headland and grew into a bathing resort whose motto claims the sea washes away the ills of man. Two beaches face away from each other either side of the headland, and the harbour sits in the crook between them.
The pleasure of Tenby is that everything is within a few hundred yards of the harbour. Coffee comes from the Stowaway, a café built into a listed arch in the harbour wall; fish and chips from Fecci's, a town institution; pastries from the Motley Pie café beside the fire station, which bakes on site every morning. When the tide is out you can cross the sand to St Catherine's Island, a rock crowned by a fort that later served as a zoo, and when it is in the boats leave for Caldey, where monks farm the island and make chocolate. The coast path south towards Lydstep is a full headland walk with a short inland detour to Bubbleton farm shop, and the South Beach view back to St Catherine's is the one visitors carry home. Tenby earns its place on any Wales list because it was never one thing: fort, resort, harbour town and gateway to an island, all in one walkable knot.
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Solo
An early walk along the coast path to Lydstep, then coffee in the harbour-wall arch while the town wakes up around you.
Couple
Fish and chips by the harbour as dusk falls, a boat to Caldey the next morning, and the walk back across the sand from St Catherine's before the tide turns.
Family
Two beaches, a rock fort to reach at low tide, a farm shop on the walk and a boat trip to an island of red squirrels.
Friends
Base yourselves in the harbour streets, share the town's cafés and chippies, and split the group between the coast path and the beach.
Morning coffee at the Stowaway, a café fitted into a Grade II listed arch in the harbour wall, with the boats a few feet away.
Fecci's fish and chips, one of the town's most popular, eaten on the harbour or at a table inside; the Motley Pie café by the fire station bakes everything on site each morning.

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