Portugal
Roman baths still steam beside a bridge Trajan built, thermal waters hot for two millennia.
Steam rises from the thermal springs in the centre of Chaves, Portugal, curling past the Roman bridge that has spanned the Tâmega river since Emperor Trajan ordered its construction. The water surfaces at 73°C, carrying the same minerals that drew Roman legionaries here to heal their wounds. On the far bank, the old town stacks up in layers of granite and colour.
Chaves is one of Portugal's oldest continuously inhabited spa towns, its thermal waters documented since the Roman occupation of Aquae Flaviae in the 1st century AD. Trajan's bridge, completed around 104 AD, still carries pedestrians across the Tâmega — its original Roman milestones remain at each end. The 14th-century castle keep now houses a military museum, while surrounding streets reveal layers of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture. Chaves sits in the upper Tâmega valley near the Spanish border, its fertile basin producing smoked presunto that rivals anything from across the frontier. The modern thermal spa complex channels the same geothermal source the Romans used, offering treatments in mineral-rich water that has been in continuous therapeutic use for nearly two thousand years.
Couple
Chaves pairs Roman history with thermal relaxation in a way few European spa towns can match. Spend mornings crossing Trajan's bridge to explore the old town, afternoons soaking in geothermal pools, and evenings sharing pastéis de Chaves warm from the bakery.
Solo
The thermal baths, compact old town, and frontier-town atmosphere make Chaves an ideal solo base for exploring the remote Trás-os-Montes. The pace is unhurried, the food is hearty, and the Roman bridge alone justifies the journey north.
Family
The thermal pools appeal to all ages, and the castle museum brings history to life for children. Chaves is a manageable, walkable town with enough to fill two or three days without the crowds of Portugal's coastal destinations.
Pastéis de Chaves — flaky pastry parcels stuffed with seasoned veal, eaten warm from the bakery.
Presunto from the surrounding hills and local trout grilled simply with garlic.

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