Costa Rica
A tropical fjord of bathwater-warm calm, ringed by primary rainforest and cruised by dolphins.
The water is warm as a bath and still as glass. Bottlenose dolphins work these sheltered waters, sometimes surfacing within a stone's throw of shore. Behind the beach, primary rainforest drops to the waterline without interruption โ Golfo Dulce is that rarest of coastal forms, a tropical fjord.
Golfo Dulce โ the 'sweet gulf' โ is a deep, enclosed arm of the Pacific pressed between the Osa Peninsula and the mainland, ringed almost completely by protected forest: Piedras Blancas National Park, the Golfo Dulce Forest Reserve and Corcovado beyond. Its sheltered geography calms the water into a nursery โ dolphins, whales and sea turtles all work the gulf, and mangrove mouths stitch the marine world to the jungle one. Lodges on the roadless shores are supplied by boat, which keeps the shoreline to birdsong and outboards. Kayak at dawn and the loudest sound on the gulf is a howler chorus rolling downhill.
Solo
Kayaking the shoreline, howlers overhead and, on lucky mornings, dolphins ahead โ sensory immersion that splits a life into before and after.
Couple
A tropical fjord with no through-road, where dolphins sometimes pass the dock โ the pace is set by tides and sunlight, nothing else.
Family
Calm, warm, sheltered water made for young kayakers and first snorkels, with guided nature walks straight off the beach.
Hearts-of-palm ceviche from lodge gardens โ the Osa feeds the table from forest as much as sea.
South Pacific coffee from the hills behind the gulf โ Coto Brus beans poured in Golfito's sodas.

Bangaram Atoll
India
Teardrop coral atolls where bioluminescent plankton washes up on uncrowded sand in the Arabian Sea.

Loch an Eilein
Scotland
A castle ruin on a loch island surrounded by forest so old the trees remember wolves.

Yasawa Islands
Fiji
Volcanic spines pierce the Pacific, each island ringed by its own shade of turquoise.

Monuriki
Fiji
The island from Cast Away truly belongs to crested iguanas brought back from the brink.

San Gerardo de Dota
Costa Rica
A bird the Maya held sacred flashes emerald through one cold valley's mist.

Palo Verde National Park
Costa Rica
Ten thousand hectares of marsh erupt with waterbirds while crocodiles bask below limestone hills.

Caรฑo Negro Wildlife Refuge
Costa Rica
A seasonal lake that appears and vanishes, concentrating caimans and jabiru storks in shrinking lagoons.

Boca Tapada
Costa Rica
A muddy northern frontier where endangered green macaws nest in wild almond trees.