Oman
Wednesday's souq belongs entirely to Ibra's women, one of the region's last such markets.
Tall mud-brick mansions recall the fortunes carried home to Ibra from Zanzibar, carved doors still hanging in their frames. On Wednesday mornings the souq belongs to the town's women, and the trading starts at six.
Ibra grew rich on the Zanzibar trade, and the mansions of Al Mansfah, tall, carved and slowly softening back into mud brick, are that wealth still standing. On Wednesday mornings the souq adds the thing Ibra is known for: a market run entirely by women, from six until one, selling textiles, halwa, perfumes and dates, one of the region's last such markets. Silver has long been the town's signature craft. Most travellers pass through en route to the sands, and the ones who stop on a Wednesday get the better story.
Solo
Time the sands run for a Wednesday morning and give the women's souq two hours; it is the most distinctive market stop on the route.
Couple
Al Mansfah's mansions then the souq make an unhurried morning before the desert crossing.
Home-made halwa and dates from the Wednesday souq's tables.
Omani bread baked fresh in the souq lanes, eaten walking.

Suva
Fiji
South Pacific hustle where Hindu temples share streets with Fijian markets and colonial verandahs.

Levuka
Fiji
Fiji's first colonial capital frozen in the 1870s, wooden shopfronts sagging under tropical rain.

São João del-Rei
Brazil
Baroque towers answering each other across a valley, ringing the sex of whoever has just died.

Salvador
Brazil
Drum rhythms ricocheting off colonial walls where song, dance and combat happen at once.

Sur
Oman
Dhow ribs curve beside a lagoon where Oman's seafaring craft still has a workshop.

Bandar Khayran
Oman
Limestone headlands, mangrove inlets and hidden coves maze the coast twenty-five minutes from Muscat.

Musandam Peninsula
Oman
Bare limestone drops into drowned valleys where dolphins ride the dhow's bow wave.

Nizwa
Oman
On Friday mornings goats and cattle circle the ring beneath a tower built for cannon fire.