Costa Rica
Descend into dark Pacific water where bull sharks circle — their territory, your privilege.
The water darkens as the boat reaches the drop-off. Forty-five minutes out of Playas del Coco, the Bat Islands rise bare and volcanic from the swell; below, cold upwellings turn the water green-black. Somewhere past twelve metres, the first bull shark materialises from the murk with the indifferent precision of an owner.
Islas Murciélago — the Bat Islands — lie inside Santa Rosa National Park's marine sector, where nutrient-rich upwellings pull big animals close: bull sharks aggregate in the season from roughly May to November, and mantas and rays cruise the cleaning stations in the same water column. Access is controlled through the conservation area's reservation system and licensed dive operators, and the open-Pacific crossing tests sea legs before the diving tests nerve. This is an advanced dive with a professional briefing, not a casual splash. Above the surface the islands stay bare rock and seabirds — Guanacaste's driest, saltiest edge.
Solo
Advanced divers get a bucket-list shark encounter with a forty-five-minute commute instead of a thirty-six-hour one.
Friends
Few shared experiences match surfacing after a bull shark dive — the harbour-bar retelling gets bigger by the round.
Whole red snapper at the Playas del Coco harbour — the post-dive refuel.
Cold beers and ceviche along Coco's strip while the retelling gets bigger.

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